Anyway, I got a smart central heating system right at the start of this whole energy crisis/cost of living nightmare, I can’t get a heat pump(!) likely my building is too old and energy inefficient to work with this anyway smart heating seemed like something doable/affordable I’m not sure about rating this as “amazing” (5 stars) but “better than expected” (4) didn’t seem a fit either..it’s a central heating thermostat..can’t we just give a star rating without these associated comments?? No, E1 is an error code that means the internal sensor has failed. The sender unit will have to be replaced. These batteries are factory fitted and not designed to be user replaceable. Unauthorised removal of the battery could damage the unit. TRVs

Drayton Wiser may be functional, but its plain all-white plastic design certainly isn’t stylish. If you prefer gadgets that make a design statement, this isn’t the smart thermostat for you. If the valve is a 15, 10 or 8mm angled body then it can be fitted in either flow/return, horizontally or vertically. The RF1, 2 and 3 are no longer available. They can be replaced with any current range of RF thermostats. Hard Wired Room Thermostats I have a Digistat+RF room unit with my combi boiler. Is it possible that interference from other wireless appliances can occur, ie computer systems, walkie talkies, radio controlled toys?We did notice a slight delay of around 10 seconds to one minute between boosting the heating from both the radiator thermostat or the app and the boiler springing into action. The further away from the Heat Hub the thermostat is, the longer the delay. Initially, we also struggled to get the radiator thermostat in the room furthest from the Heat Hub to remain connected to the system at all times. It would often drop the signal, meaning we were unable to control it via the app. However, after installing an optional Wiser Smart Plug – which also doubles as a range extender for the system – in a room between the Heat Hub and the troublesome radiator thermostat, connection issues were no longer a problem. day programming: The most flexible option allowing you to schedule every day of the week independently. Powered by two AA batteries, the smart thermostat can be freestanding on a table or shelf, or mounted on a wall. It has three touch controls on the front. The plus and minus button allow you to adjust the desired temperature of the room, while the middle button boosts the heating in said room by two degrees. The screen automatically goes to sleep after 15 seconds to conserve the battery, but pressing any of the three touch controls will wake it up. The Insights tab includes information on how much energy you’ve saved with Eco mode enabled, while also presenting a ‘Heat Report’ that details how long and to what temperature over the past day, week, and month your rooms have been heated. I’ve not spent the time scouring my bills/data to find out how much this has saved, very hard to appreciate with the way things are bouncing around but I feel it must have helped not least because I have a pretty unique set up here, I have 3 rooms and a hall in my little flat and I rent two as tiny self contained spaces/short term holiday lets. Previously all the rooms had to follow a general trend: if I was in for the weekend and guests were out sight seeing etc as is typical I was heating their rooms also, if someone was cold at night, all the rooms had to be warmer. This system allows me to set each room up individually, I can say keep one space warmer at night, turn any of them off for most of the day, the boiler still runs keeping any warm that are occupied. It does it by shutting or opening battery controlled valves on the radiators in each as required. I think in a conventional sole occupant house this would not be as useful/this level of control would be excessive.

The Heat Hub is a rectangular box with two buttons. One button activates the set-up process, while the other starts the whole system heating. LEDs above the buttons glow green when these options are active. The Heat Hub should be screwed to the wall next to your boiler. The square smart thermostat has a two-inch screen that shows the current temperature of the room it’s in, as well as the desired temperature. It also displays the relative humidity and battery level, and features a flame icon to indicate if the heating is switched on. My Digistat +2/3 appears to switch off before my set point is reached and sometimes remains on after my set point is reached, is this normal? Typically 30M, however building construction and materials may effect this. Signal strength test should be carried out. Insights tab provides stats about the number of hours the heating has been switched on and energy saving made through Eco mode

Schneider Electric does not grant any right or license for commercial use of the document or its content, except for a non-exclusive and personal license to consult it on an "as is" basis. What I always mention reviewing this item is to get any kind of accuracy with this set up (which is vital in my circumstances of course) you need one of these stats for every room, I bought the system believing the radiator valves were sufficient and only one stat was needed for “the most important/main room” my finding was despite the valves apparently being adjusted to allow for being close to the radiators when sensing the room’s temperature it just didn’t work, you got a sort of boom/bust situation. The heating would run, the area by the rad was of course much warmer than the room the valve shut the radiator believing the space was at temperature and it could be 8 degrees off..eventually the radiator would cool, the valve would realise the room was freezing..it would run the boiler/open and so on, essentially the room was never sufficiently warm. I think this is a common criticism of thermostatic valves, I’ve never bothered with them until now/my engineer doesn’t like them. Trv’s might be different in a modern/efficient house -can’t say, maybe try it out? I used my old stats display/with it disconnected as a room thermometer(it’s battery powered) to tell me what was happening in statless areas. day / 2-day programming:This groups weekdays and the weekend separately, so you can set a schedule for your weekdays and a separate schedule for the weekend. The actuator head of a ACL Lifestyle 2-port motorised valve (679H308-30L1) has failed. Is it still possible to get the actuator for this valve to avoid draining the whole system?