The number of models you can strip at once is mostly determined by how many models you can add to your thinner, but small batches of models are usually best. IPA, Isopropyl alcohol, is a fire hazard as stated before, so avoid heat sources and especially open flames. The thickened formulation will adhere to any surface, reducing drips to a minimum and avoiding waste.

Hey guys, quick question: I have heard that one can strip plastic and resin very safely and reliably with isopropy alcohol. As always we suggest that you test it first on a sample and recommend short soaking times, and gentle scrubbing to and check the progress of the paint removal rather than extended soaking. A. and other detergents made from it is that they do soften up the paint, which will be goopy and scratchable after you left it soak for a while (for 99% I. Though if you absolutely need to clean resin models with IPA, definitely test first with a scrap piece of the same type; you can get away with it with some resins with scrubbing with IPA (rather than soaking). my warning is purely because I’m not a chemist and I’m not having someone blame me because they didn’t take precautions handling neat chemicals.It works about as well as anything else, just take it steady and don’t leave the resin mini’s soaking in IPA like you could with plastic or metal. Once again this is not just useful to Strip Paint off Miniatures, if you have an airbrush you should use something like this in the least. The reason I decided to stop after this 6-8 hour period is that whilst stripping, I suddenly vomited into my mouth a small amount. Now that the safety part is covered, I had great success with 70% IPA, about an hour soaking, and a toothbrush and some elbow grease ;) The higher grade stuff is a bit more annoying to work with in terms of fumes and eats the thinner nitrile gloves quicker (they soften and tear eventually).

To view the purposes they believe they have legitimate interest for, or to object to this data processing use the vendor list link below.

We’ve been using Biostrip 20, which is more of a goo-like consistency than some of the alternatives. Economical –Thixotropic (thickened) solution clings to vertical surfaces, causing no drips, no runs, no waste. It'd be really cool to be able to save the primer layer from needing to be fully stripped and resprayed if possible. I use the same iso to clean my airbrush between colors and its not really an issue, just be prepared for pain if you have any cuts or scrapes on your hands if you get it in there.

So I can spend my time as a reborn beginner (with some money) practising different techniques with lots of different products to see what works best. There is still some cleanup to do again but I can get this easily with another pass of soaking and scrubbing. As an isopropyl group linked to a hydroxyl group, it is the simplest example of a secondary alcohol, where the alcohol carbon atom is attached to two other carbon atoms. The duration to leave your models for will vary depending on the type of paint stripper you’re using, as well as what material your models are made of.If you’re finding that the paint isn’t coming off easily, then you may need to leave it in the paint stripper for a little longer before trying again. This will help get rid of any excess paint stripper (especially helpful with Biostrip 20, which is incredibly thick). But the point here was that Isopropanol isn’t a brand it’s a cheap product that does the job well and is available from anywhere. I'm going to do a little experiment on my AT knights that I'm stripping (I don't love how they look) with diluted alcohol because I may be able to save the silver primer underneath if I just use q-tips instead of soaking.