I had to get rid of the slop in the distributor, replace the throttle shaft bearings (vacuum leak), power valve, accelerator pump diaphragm , and plastic float (replaced with brass) on my Weber 32/36. F000KE0P16, F000KE0P34, W175TR30, W200TR30, W6DC, W7DC, W7DCR, WR5D+, WR6D, WR6D+, WR6DC, WR6DC+, WR6DP, WR7D, WR7D+, WR7DC, WR7DC+, WR7DC2, WR7DP, WR8DC4, STK7500, STK7501, STK7594, STK7595 Once this was done, then I spent time fiddling with the timing and vacuum advance and the electric choke setting.

I think I can safely say that it may have plugs in it from 1999, which is probably good because they are what the long-term owner always ran in it (1970-2000), and the car has only had 4,000 miles put on it since 2004. The NGK Standard Spark Plug is constructed from durable material that is corrosion and abrasion resistant. The spark plug insulators are made of 99 percent pure alumina silicate, allowing for longer insulator noses for reduced fouling. This spark plug features a triple gasket sealing process that eliminates fuel leakage. It also includes a solid copper core that provides superior heat dissipation and conductivity. This spark plug has resistor that is produced with a glass and carbon mixture, which is fired to ensure superior performance and durability. It has corrugated ribs that prevent flashover and cold rolled threads to inhibit damage to the cylinder head. Records indicate jets being done in the '80s on the carb. Car was from the Bay Area and is now in Chicago, so not a ton of altitude difference there. This listing is for one plug so if you need more then simply add that number of items to your basket.

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A spark plug produces a high intensity electrical discharge (the spark) inside the combustion chamber, igniting your fuel to keep the engine firing. So, the plan is to work on a few small things on Saturday and I wanted to throw new spark plugs in while I was there and take it for a spin. I know BP5ES and BP6ES are the general recommendations for 2002 2.0 liter engines and I always use NGK, but I'm not sure which heat range I should go with. Here's what I know about the engine:

Through extensive research & development NGK has developed a range of spark plugs specifically aimed at the horticultural market EON5, OE004, OE004/R04, OE004/T10, OE006, OE006/R04, OE006/T1, OE006T10, OE111, RN10Y, RN10YC, RN11YC4, RN7YC, RN9Y, RN9YC, RN9YCC,It does this thousands of times each minute. Over time spark plugs start to break down, resulting in a poor spark. A healthy engine needs good clean spark plugs. High quality NGK spark plug which is designed using the latest technology to give optimum performance over the Lawnmowers entire rev. range

I know it's been a little while since I've posted. The car is here but still in winter storage out in the burbs, so I only get over there every couple of weeks for a little while since the garage isn't heated and it's 40 miles away (better than 2,200, right?). I'll be bringing it up to my place once the salt has been washed off the roads and the temps come up a little.

\n\t\t\tNGK Lawnmower Sparkplug - BPR6ES

NGK is the brand leader in the UK spark plug market and are the world's biggest supplier to many major car manufacturers. Each and every one of their products are designed to meet the most rigorous standards and are the professionals' choice because of their quality and technical excellence. Their plugs can be found in use by teams in F1, WRC and MotoGP. Put simply, NGK genuine spark plugs are the workhorse at the heart of smooth-running engines around the world. I started my quest for a smooth idle, peppy acceleration, clean oil, clean plugs and decent gas mileage last year.

Our cars are 42+ years old, and were designed to run on leaded gas. This was very different chemistry from the stuff we get at the pump today.Suitable for any points type ignition system, our Powerspark Electronic Ignition Electronic Kits, and other electronic ignition systems. I went to a BP5ES plug (slightly hotter than the BP6) and switched to 87 octane gas as another step toward reaching my goals. This last step reduced the soot on the plugs and in the tail pipe, and made the engine run much smoother.