This is one of the few times when US ing a hammer on a chisel is ap-propriate. Hold the chisel along the forward vertical edge of the recess you are making, then tap it with a leather or wood mallet (not a metal hammer). Because you are cutting across the grain, the chisel will not penetrate very deeply. The same holds true if you need to apply de-icers or other treatments such as washer fluid or anti-freeze when temperatures drop below freezing. Now you’re ready to chisel out the !recesses. If you’re an experienced ‘wood butcher, you’ll have your own procedures. If not, here are some suggestions: If you decide to do the calculation yourself, you must use a coefficient of friction of 0.2 in the calculation unless: Straps used in the UK usually have an STF of 350daN or lower. For some loads, you may need to use straps with an STF of 500daN or more to reduce the number of lashings required. Other information on the strap

The shank slot is easier insofar as its edges are parallel, more difficult in-sofar as there’s a longer slope to cut and smooth, But the procedure is the same as with the fluke recess. Drill a control hole; a 5/8″ bit produces a 5/8″ slot (which is good for anchors up to about 20 pounds.) Then proceed as before, carefully and patiently shaving down the sloped slot. inspect any straps involved in a load shift incident - do not use them if they’re worn or damaged, even if the damage appears to be minor

Step 1: Cut the pieces of lumber to the desired length – generally around 4-6 inches long. Both pieces should be cut to the same size. Gather the necessary supplies: two pieces of 2×4 lumber, metal corner braces, and screws. You’ll also need a saw, drill, wrench, and screwdriver. direct - where one end of the lashing is attached to the load and the other end is attached to the vehicle or trailer

A divisible load is a load that can be broken down into multiple smaller parts, such as a bundle of pipes or bars. Provided you have time inthe lift dropping the rudder out is fine. Providied the cradle is big enough to provide support as you take strain off the slings then you will be best putting the boat into this first so that she is fully settled with the weight on the keel before putting props in all round. There is a real risk of dammage if you put a prop in before all the load is off the hoist of the prop causing excessive pressurein a single spot. As said elsewhere you may well find that the boat pivots as the weight comes off. You will also need to ensure that the boat stays upright. If you havn't done this before please get somebody who has done a few to help. Once settled in the cradle a good number of props tied together as shown on the Saddler should be fine. Make sure that the props are positioned on strong areas of the hull. If you are determined to leave the mast up strip off all you can, frap rigging hard to prevent vibration and even consider wrapping a warm round and round the mast as a 'vortex shredder'. I personnally thing the right size cradle is the thing to get and take away a lot of trouble and worry. I know there are rubber alternatives, but looking on Transair they seem a little more expensive (not sure if they're cheaper elsewhere, but I'm not specifically looking at that). The friction between most loads and the standard load beds of most vehicles and trailers is generally low. The weight of a load alone cannot be relied on to keep it in place once the vehicle is moving, even if the load is very heavy and cannot be moved by hand when the vehicle is stationary. Don't worry about the bow and stern props until the end just before the belts get dropped away from the hull.They’re an effective load securing method when used correctly, but they can be damaged easily. Keeping straps in good condition Loop (choke) lashing is particularly effective when these loads are carried at an angle over the headboard of a vehicle or trailer. You must use a minimum of 2 loop (choke) lashings for this type of load unless each item is individually clamped to the headboard.

When securing a load in the middle of the load bed, or a load that is not very tall, you should either: You must secure any divisible load that is higher than the headboard. You can use additional lashings to stop the load moving forward when the vehicle brakes. Indivisible loads You can achieve positive fit with cylindrical loads (such as paper reels) when the extremity of either one reel or two reels side by side is within 8cm of the side of the vehicle or trailer. They make a great addition to your toolbox for added safety measures when working on your vehicle, but they should also be used with other precautions in place. Design the larger piece so that about 3″ of the flukes and all of the shank are contained in a resting posi-tion. Design the crown rest with at least an inch of width outside either edge of the crown.

Step 3:With a drill and proper bit, create a hole on each end of the second piece of lumber for your screws to attach to the first piece at an angle (about 20 degrees). An example of choke lashing - the most effective way to secure loads that extend over the headboard. Understanding the strap label Frictional lashing is most effective when the angle of the lashing relative to the load bed is as close to vertical as possible. If the angle is less than 30°, the lashing will not be effective. look for any signs of damage on the straps before using them - you must replace any straps that are significantly damaged a high-friction surface with a certified coefficient of friction is used between the load and load bed