Varnish the windows to “save” your work! Gloss varnish is preferable because it’s easier to wipe off future mistakes with a damp brush and water. Highlight Colors: The first thing we can take away from all that is that leather is our color choice for highlights. As leather abrades it will expose areas where less dye has penetrated. In areas of high wear, working brown or even orange into your highlights gives your leather a lot of richness and a lived in feeling. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/e588d28183cec31ffd6dcee6d3718fc3.cms/equivalencias-rev05.pdf The quote above in the Geography section, "All tunnels lead to Skavenblight," is a reference to the Roman proverb "All roads lead to Rome".

A second stage of shading was applied with P3 Bastion Grey [ Stormvermin Fur should be close]. You might need to get out the Trollblood Highlight again to smooth the transition. Now for the finishing touches! I glue on just a little dead grass – any make will do but I have a pot of Galeforce 9 dead grass I’ve been using for a decade now. Just be sure to varnish before applying any static grass as the fibers can catch the varnish and it’ll look weird.

Leather is, in the broadest terms, the skin of an animal that has been processed and treated so that it doesn’t rot. To do this, you get rid of all the junk you don’t want, like flesh and hair, apply a chemical treatment to stabilize the protein, then remove most of the water from the skin, which also helps prevent rotting. Afterwards you apply any dyes to the leather, and saturate it with stable oils to make it flexible again, and prevent it from reabsorbing water instead. Wash the sign (both the lettering and the red) with diluted (1:1 parts water to paint) Basilicanum Grey. Your highlights have now been dulled down a bit. Now add some new ones on top using Skavenblight Dinge, Gorthor Brown mix, and mixes of the two. You’re roughly repeating your earlier steps at this point. Credit: Evan “Felime” Siefring The main two acrylic primers out there are from Vallejo and Badger. I recommend Badger’s Stynylrez as they’re very no fuss and go down very smoothly. Vallejo is decent but has a tendency to clog airbrushes so this may be a case for thinning your primer.

Add a little Cadian Fleshtone to the The Fang and layer up, leaving the darker color in the recesses The Bilious Basilica is the fortress-monastery of Clan Pestilens and their most prominent holding outside the Southlands. Once it served as a factory of some sort, but Clan Pestilens has long since built large walls around the area. Most Skaven not of the Pestilent Brotherhood avoid the area, as the stench is enough to cause even a Skaven nausea. [5a] Clan Skryre District [ ] Highlight the Red, Amber, Green traffic lights with Evil Sunz Scarlet, Dorn Yellow and Moot Green, respectively. I strongly encourage you to experiment with Verdigris and your own materials. I didn’t have any Nihilakh Oxide, or I probably would have used some of that. I will present the method I ended up using, though, as a rough template and reference. Ceilings collapsed, killing thousands more, and the destructive energy spread out from Skavenblight in all directions. The ancient city sank with a tortured rumble as the sea washed in to drown the tortured land. [9a]Honorable Mention – Flesh Tones: Not pictured. Flesh tones are another excellent paint to look at for painting scratches in leather. Because they tend to be so much lighter than the base color, you have to paint them in very thin, controlled scratches, lines, and highlights. While laborious, this can look amazing, especially combined with glazes. If you’re using an airbrush, paint the windows first (following the steps we used to paint the car windows earlier), then gloss varnish them to save your work and mask them with silly putty. Enormous windmills of worm-eaten wood and rusted iron relentlessly churn out grain to feed the starving hordes of Skavenblight. Periodically, armed patrols sweep the lines, enforcing speed and mercilessly gathering up any who have collapsed or expired under their weighty loads. Any such unfortunates are thrown in with the crops, simply more grist for the mill. [1a] Layout [ ]

Skavenblight Dinge: Skavenblight Dinge is an excellent grey. It is dark and is ever so slightly brownish, making it perfect for leather. It also thins well and can go on slightly transparent. Skavenblight is the name given by Tileans to the city, [10a] the Italian name of Skavenblight is Skarogna (misfortune). [13a] While this is step 5, you can do the little details at any point after you’ve done the railings and stone. There are WAY too many skulls on this model. You have to paint them carefully so you don’t get bone color on your finished stonework, and you have to paint them twice, because you really do need two thin coats to get solid coverage. For my skulls(and various random bones), I painted them with VMA Sand(Ivory), then washed with Agrax Earthshade. For your sanity, I recommend a similarly simple approach. The skulls are the worst part of painting this kit. Staining: Leather is porous and absorbent. Especially if not conditioned well, it will greedily soak up water or oil that gets on it. Oil stains will typically result in a darker spots, while water stains are more interesting. Water, especially dirty puddles with all sorts of gross stuff in them, will act a lot like unevenly applied washes, and form darker tide marks on the leather around the edge of the stain.Mix in a little more Tallarn Sand and layer up again, concentrating on raised areas where light would hit

Vallejo Game Color Dark Fleshtone [ Doombull Brown] was painted directly into the recesses of the armour. Then, a small piece of blister sponge was ripped off, dabbed into paint and carefully “stamped” on the armour to add a chipped armour effect – this technique is called sponge weathering. Wipe any excess paint and don’t overdo the effect. We’ve taken a look at abrasion and staining explicitly, and incorporated some elements of conditioning through the fading and layers of scratches. Burnishing isn’t something you’ll be using often on 40k models. Most places that are constantly rubbing against soft surfaces, such the side of a leather bag pressed against the body, are hidden because they’re pressed up against those soft surfaces. Old leather shoes can also become burnished on the toe and heel from years of polishing. However, you won’t see this often on soldiers. Light leather, where it will be most visible, isn’t popular for military footwear as it shows stains easily and is harder to maintain. The toes and heels of combat boots are also constantly getting beaten up, so abrasion will typically wipe out any burnishing that appears. That said, if you’re painting a rogue trader, high commander, or other imperial noble, you might want to incorporate burnishing, as it can be quite pretty. Because of how pretty it can be, it’s often emulated using dyes on dress shoes, rather than waiting for years of wear and polishing to do their magic. As the Skaven capital city, Skavenblight benefits from being the largest trade hub in the Under-Empire, where hundreds upon hundreds of merchants, peddlers, and trade barges enter the city annually to sell their wares and goods, hailing from the multitude of clans that populate the vast Under-Empire. [4a]Skaven Clanrats: Skaven Clanrats are the basic infantry of the Skaven army, and Skavenblight Dinge paint is perfect for painting the base color of their fur. Before we go into step by step detail on exact methods, I’m going to use the test model I did for this article to show off a variety of different leather textures and colors, and broadly discuss the techniques used for each. Credit: Evan “Felime” Siefring Credit: Evan “Felime” Siefring Credit: Evan “Felime” Siefring Credit: Evan “Felime” Siefring In our How to Paint Everything series, we look at how to paint well, everything! We look at different models and techniques and have multiple approaches to specific models. In today’s article, we’re looking at how to paint some of the terrain in Marvel Crisis Protocol, starting with terrain found in the Core Box (CP01) set!