The Villain: The Life of Don Whillans

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The Villain: The Life of Don Whillans

The Villain: The Life of Don Whillans

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Hamish MacInnes is truly a man of the mountains. He has dedicated his life to exploration and has used the immense knowledge he has gathered to improve both climbing and mountain rescue equipment. He is recognised around the world as an outstanding climber and as a highly respected authority on mountain rescue. He continued to climb into his old age and the list of his achievements grew longer with the years. His last recorded new climbs, on Welsh slate and in the Anti-Atlas of Morocco, were accomplished in his late 70s. But after those two great Himalayan ascents of the mid-1950s, his climbing involvement was more relaxed. With this proliferation of equipment, climbs and expeditions were taking on ever more technical challenges which as before, led to a demand for even more sophisticated gear. The ultimate trip of that time was the Annapurna South Face, and to meet the totally new requirements of such an undertaking, Don Whillans conceived the idea of his sit harness. Originally a rather bizarre object, the idea was worked on and modified by the Troll team over a period of six months and the result was hailed as the most indispensable piece of gear on the climb. He designed mountaineering equipment, including the "Whillans Harness", once described as designed to safely transport beer-guts to great height, and the "Whillans-box" expedition tent. He was also instrumental in the design and development of new gear, (correct me if I'm wrong) the Whillans harness was the first harness to raise the legs into a sitting position, It was pretty close to the modern sit harness we all use today. It's just that it had a strap that went between the legs that made it a particularly uncomfortable fall for gentlemen.The Whillans box tent was grounbreaking and stood up better than any of its contemporaries.

First Britons conquer Everest". BBC On this day. 2008. Archived from the original on 7 March 2008 . Retrieved 17 January 2020.

Rescues on the hills and mountains of Scotland became a significant part of Hamish’s life. Hamish writes, 'Only too often it is a fight for life: there is nothing more satisfying than the successful evacuation of a critically injured person on a highly technical rescue, where a single mistake could result in the death of the casualty. It is, on a grand scale, a game of chance in which nature holds most of the cards'.

Brown still lives in the Welsh village of Llanberis, below Snowdon and the crags of the Llanberis pass, where he and Whillans found such extreme self-expression through climbing. Good-humoured and engaging, Brown was a few years older than Whillans and was already something of a legend when the Salford man first emerged. For me, the book also failed to give any insights into Don & Audrey's relationship. Even as a child of 10, it had seemed "unusual" to me, what with them both going off on expeditions and having no kids. Audrey probably deserves a book of her own and certainly a larger part in Don's story. Again, she isn't with us any longer so she can't comment on what Jim Perrin has said.

Huts aren’t just a place to stay, they’re a place to socialise. They are communal places, with beds or bunks in dorm type rooms, so you’ll need to bring a sleeping bag or blanket, and possibly a pillow. You can expect to find separate men’s and women’s bathrooms. Depending on the size of the place there might be several rooms to sleep in, and depending on the mix of people attending, rooms might be allocated for men, women, couples, families and/or visitors. Often it’s just down to individuals to grab their preferred space on arrival - this is usually down to the meet organiser to coordinate, so just ask if you’d like to know more. It's a hard choice right enough, but I think people are ludicrously overestimating the contribution of recent generations. Owen Glynne Jones and perhaps Siegfried Herford both deserve far more consideration than they’re getting. Fowler – a great climber and no error, but how influential was he, in the sense of making a difference to the direction climbing took? I also wonder about John Dunne. What’s happened that wouldn’t have happened if he’d been around? Same with Fawcett, in a way. The best of his day and one of the best ever, of course, but I’m not sure that’s the question. I don’t know that Pete Crew didn’t have more influence than he gets credit for, also. Certainly in the way of introducing professionalism I’d say he was as influential as perhaps any climber before or since. Redhead was also very influential in keeping the flame alight – more so even than Dawes, perhaps. The hut is leased by the BMC and administered by a volunteer team. It is situated on the Roaches Estate, which is managed by the Staffordshire Wildlife Trust.



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