For each roll you’ll need between 7.5 and 10 kgs of the adhesive depending on how absorbent the surface is NB This is not a dedicated sound insulation product and the control of noise pollution is a complex subject so we cannot guarantee satisfactory results. For comprehensive information we recommend that advice from a specialist consultant is sought. Condensation forms when the warm air hits a cold wall or ceiling, the bigger the difference between the room air temperature and the surface temperature of the wall the worse condensation problems are likely to be. T he same as cold drink outside on a warm summer day when condensation forms on the the glass. If you do not intend to cover the product with fibreliner or similar then any small gaps at seams and corners can be filled and sanded prior to painting the surface directly with standard emulsion paint. Use a good quality, flexible non shrinking filler.

It begins to work from the moment the heating is turned on and is especially effective on walls where the other side is exposed to the elements or an unheated room.The product works by creating a thermal barrier at the wall surface ensuring more heat is retained within the room for massively reduced warm up times and on-going energy savings - at the same time combatting the formation of condensation and the resultant unhealthy and unsightly mould growth. Allow at least 24 hours for drying, longer if conditions are especially humid or cold. Wherever possible we also recommend that the thermal liner is allowed to dry out naturally and therefore the heating is turned off whilst the adhesive dries out. However if temperatures are likely to drop below 10°c/50°F it is advisable that low level heating is used to ensure that the adhesive can cure effectively. You can apply over a paper product e.g. lining paper, woodchip embossed papers. Do not apply over vinyl or blown vinyl wallpaper, as this will reduce the breathability of the thermal liner. Again lightly sand then PVA bond the wallpaper. You probably need to look at slightly larger render companies to do the work as they are more likely to have previous experience. There are far more scare stories about CWI than actual problems. If you have a defective wall with holes in it or loose render; or a gutter spilling water down the wall, then you need to fix it. If you have a cavity filled with builders rubble then it should not be there (it is quite tiresome to remove)

Do not go around external corners just cut into them as they will not be straight. What happens is the next wall the Thermal Liner will not be straight and this will cause problems when butt joining the product. If you are applying thermal liner & KV600 over plaster base, lightly sand then PVA bond 2 times to seal the wall.If you are applying over painted plaster, lightly sand then PVA bond to seal the wall. Mark the wall away from the corner approx. 70cm (thermal Liner) 95cm (KV600) and draw a plumb line (straight) to start from.

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Once this is done let dry for 24 hours at normal room temperature - no heating on and windows open if possible.

Only paste the wall enough for 1 strip at a time leaving it wider to make sure the edges are covered and to reduce the amount on adhesive that will be applied for the next strip on the edges. The wall or ceiling surface warms up much faster too thus reducing cold air currents and draughts that can make occupants feel cold – most of us have experienced standing near a cold window in a warm room and still feeling cold. Once the room is up to temperature, KV600 carries on working providing significant reductions in energy lost through the surface

Options to insulate the walls of your home

Mould Prevention - Thermal Liner allows walls to breathe and raises the room temperature meaning it will help to combat mould growth Therefore, by adding the R values above we arrive at a total R value for the wall with thermal liner, 0.476 + 0.0821 = 0.5581m 2 K/W

It looks like the stuff I replaced for someone recently. It didn't provide any noticeable difference to the room at all. Apparently it was quite expensive when you they had to buy the special adhesive and then the insulated layer product. The one I removed also had to be filled where the joints but up and didn't look good where it met the window reveal. This product should not be used in isolation for projects such as new builds and extensions where Building Regulations are applicable. If used as part of a system that both adds to the insulation value and protects the surface from fire it may be compliant but expert advice should be sought. To further increase the fire protection, we have devised a system to achieve a Class 1 rating - see the performance report here As a final tip – if you are going round the corners of rooms with the thermal liner, I suggest cutting it as per the diagram below.

Advantages of Wallrock Thermal Liner (KV600)

Apply a good amount of adhesive working away from the corner to the wall enough to hang 1 strip at a time of thermal liner (apply approx.1m wide - KV600 1.3m Wide), This is so there is enough to cover the edges at both sides using a medium pile roller and a brush for the top, bottom and corners. You do need as PigletJohn says to consider window reveals/eaves etc otherwise you end up with fat walls that don't work where there is a detail. A.Thermal liner is classified as "E" according to DIN EN 13501-1 in relation to its reaction to fire behavior, which corresponds to "B2"(normally inflammable) according to the standard DIN 4102-1 Fire safety: is “normally” inflammable (according to the standard DIN 4102-1 “B2” classification, which corresponds to “E“ classification with DIN EN 13501-1) A. The roll are extra wide so each roll will cover 7.5 m2 or 121 ft2. Please use the link below to calculate the square meterage you may require, you will need to select Klimatec Thermovlies on the scroll menu. http://www.erfurt.com/cms/en/advisor/advisormain/calculation.html