Starlink Ethernet Adapter for Wired External Network (01560575-001)

Product Information

On this network topology, please connect Deco to the AUX port of the Gen-1 Starlink Router. Since the default operation mode on Deco is also a wireless router, to avoid of double NAT issue, it is suggested to change Deco into Access Point mode.

Starlink Mounting Options - A guide to official and DIY mounts Starlink Mounting Options - A guide to official and DIY mounts

I am thinking that it would probably be OK. I use these same 56 volt batteries to run a rather sophisticated telescope mount that requires 48volts – and that all seems to work just fine. It serves up a perfectly sized Starlink mast mount on the other end. No new holes need to be drilled, making it a pretty stress-free option.

Here’s the other option I talked about above that doesn’t require the cutting of the main Starlink dish cable.

Starlink

Metal Acme Threaded Tip For 1" Wood & Metal Poles (Buy 3 Get 1 Free) 4.5" tall. Extend the life of your pole. Hardware Included. The rectangular satellite dish that will be sent to new users is 19×12 inches, compared to the original circular dish's diameter of 23.2 inches. The dish's weight is 9.2 lbs, down from the original's 16 lbs. The operating temperature range of -22°F to +122°F (-30°C to +50°C) is unchanged, so the thermal shutdowns that have affected some users of the original "Dishy McFlatface" satellite dish could continue to be a problem. I am attaching a long arm mount under the gable end. It is attached to lapped siding so not 100% vertical. Maybe 2-4 degrees off vertical. Do I need to shim with washers to make it vertical or will dish adjust. ReplyIf you have a lot of tall tree’s and the peak of your roof isn’t high enough, you’ll need to go higher. An extension pole or even a dedicated tower might be necessary

Adapters for Starlink - Lone Pine Technology Pipe Adapters for Starlink - Lone Pine Technology

Starlink is a particular blessing to those in rural areas who are unable to get a decent conventional broadband connection. For installations where you might need more height than the roof peak offers, or for those without shingle roofs, a Chimney Mount might be a good solution. Chimney Mount’s use your existing chimney to secure a pole for mounting the Starlink dish. And I may have my “inverter” and “converter” terminology wrong. I did just find this unit: https://www.dwe-oss.eu/product/dc-dc-converter-48v-to-48v-375a/ The size of the ethernet plug is also of relevance if sleeving a 1.5" pole (or the Starlink itself) into a scaffold pole : the securing bolt should be offset sufficiently to allow the plug to pass it ! The base that comes in the Starlink kit is not going to be a permanent solution for most folks. How you end up mounting your dish will depend on many factors, including obstructions, roof angle, and budget.Caught your comment in the video about an external port and found this weather resistent SmartPlug RV Internet Inlet – https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Power-Inlets/SmartPlug/SM38FR.html

Starlink Ethernet Adapter Setup, Review, And Alternatives Starlink Ethernet Adapter Setup, Review, And Alternatives

Yes, it is possible to run the cable on the inside of most mounts. The Pivot Mount + Flashing Mount would be what I recommend for a roof install, or a J-mount/Long Wall Mount for side or fascia install. The connector on the dish side unplugs, you should route this end through the mount to avoid having to grind off anything. Reply Here’s a diagram outlining the general setup of the DC conversion. This design is what we used because we wanted to shorten the main cable length.Mk II version = Route the cable inside the pole then push the Starlink pole as far into the pole coupler as it will go (which is normally about 14.5cm). A tip – I learned and which I had tried sooner. Find an old non-mesh router that has lights on it for status. Use it to gauge your success. When you think you are wired and up, plug into that old router.